Duck Hunting Headlamp
Setting decoys in the dark is how you lose fingers and gear. You need a light that's bright enough to see the stump 50 yards away but has a red/green mode that won't flare the neighbors or ruin your night vision. The forums are tired of 'disposable' $10 lights that die the first time they hit salt water. In 2026, the move is toward high-lumen, rechargeable 'tanks' that can survive a season in a wet blind bag.
What Separates Good from Great
The 'Red/Green' Stealth Rule
White light is for the boat ramp. Once you're near the blind, switch to red or green. Red preserves your night vision and is less likely to flare early-arriving birds, while green is the forum favorite for seeing detail and 'beady eyes' in the timber.
IPX7 or Better (The 'Drop Test')
If your headlamp isn't fully submersible, it shouldn't be in a duck boat. Look for an IPX7 or IP68 rating. This means when it inevitably falls off your hat into the muck while you're reaching for a downed mallard, you can just rinse it off and keep going.
Glove-Friendly Buttons
Dainty little buttons are useless in December. You need a tactile 'click' you can feel through neoprene gloves. Many veteran hunters prefer a physical dial or a large, shielded button that won't accidentally turn on and drain the battery in your bag.
The Call
A magnesium alloy tank. Independent spotlight and floodlight. It's the forum 'gold standard' because it's virtually indestructible and the battery lasts for several hunts.
Fully waterproof (IP67) and includes red, green, and blue LEDs. It's light, comfortable, and has a 'PowerTap' feature to jump to full brightness instantly.
Made in the USA. Simple, rugged, and reliable. It's the go-to for guys who want a light that 'just works' without 50 different strobe modes.
Tiny, rechargeable, and surprisingly bright. Keep one in your glovebox or as a spare in your blind bag for when your buddy forgets his.
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