Field & Tally
Back to Blog
15 min read

Your First Bass Fishing Trip: Everything You Need Before You Hit the Water

bass fishingfirst fishing triplargemouth bassbeginner fishingfreshwater fishingfishing tipsbass fishing for beginners

Your buddy owns a boat. He's been talking about bass fishing for years—the early mornings, the big ones he's caught, the tournament he almost won. Finally, you said yes.

Now you're standing in the sporting goods aisle staring at a wall of artificial lures wondering what you've gotten yourself into. There are hundreds of options. Crankbaits. Spinnerbaits. Soft plastics in every color imaginable. Topwater frogs. Jigs with weird skirts. Each one costs $8-15 and claims to catch more bass than anything else.

You grab a few that look promising, buy a rod combo on sale, and hope for the best.

That approach might work. Or you might spend the morning watching your buddy catch fish while you throw the wrong thing in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Bass fishing has a learning curve. It's not as simple as "throw the lure, catch the fish." But once you understand the basics—how bass think, where they live, what they eat—you'll start connecting. And once you feel that first violent strike, you'll understand why 30 million Americans fish for bass every year.

This guide is for the morning before that first trip. What actually matters, what mistakes to avoid, and what to expect when you're chasing the most popular gamefish in the country.

Why Bass Fishing Works for Beginners

Bass are forgiving in ways that other species aren't.

They're everywhere. Largemouth bass live in almost every state. Farm ponds, city reservoirs, rivers, creeks, swamps—if there's freshwater, there's probably bass. You don't need to travel to special destinations.

They're aggressive. Bass are predators. They attack lures. Unlike trout that require precise presentations, bass will chase down a noisy crankbait from ten feet away and try to destroy it.

They're catchable on basic gear. A $100 rod-and-reel combo catches the same bass as a $500 setup. Sure, premium gear helps at the margins—but it's not required to have success.

They fight hard. A five-pound largemouth feels like a much bigger fish. They jump, they pull, they wrap you around structure. There's nothing subtle about a bass fight.

There's always something to learn. Simple to start, endless to master. You can spend a lifetime refining your bass fishing and never stop improving.

The flip side: bass can be frustratingly finicky. One day they'll hit anything that moves. The next day, same spot, same conditions—nothing. That inconsistency is part of the challenge.

Understanding Bass (The Short Version)

You don't need a biology degree, but understanding basic bass behavior makes everything click.

What They Eat

Bass are opportunistic predators. They eat:

  • Baitfish (shad, bluegill, minnows)
  • Crawfish
  • Frogs and tadpoles
  • Worms and insects
  • Other bass (yes, they're cannibals)
  • Pretty much anything that fits in their mouth

Your lures imitate these food sources. A crankbait looks like a fleeing baitfish. A soft plastic worm looks like... a worm. A topwater frog looks like a frog. Match what bass are eating and you'll catch more fish.

Where They Live

Bass are structure-oriented fish. They don't cruise open water looking for food—they ambush prey from cover.

Structure includes:

  • Docks and piers
  • Fallen trees and brush piles
  • Weed beds and lily pads
  • Rock piles and riprap
  • Points and drop-offs
  • Bridge pilings
  • Any change in the bottom contour

When you look at a body of water, don't see featureless lake—see structure. That's where the bass are.

When They're Active

Bass activity changes with conditions:

Temperature matters most. Bass are cold-blooded. In warm water (65-80°F), they're active and aggressive. In cold water (below 50°F), they're sluggish and harder to catch. Spring and fall are prime time in most of the country.

Light affects behavior. Early morning and late evening are classic feeding times. Bass are most active in low light. Midday fishing can work, but fish relate more to shade and deeper water.

Weather changes things. Falling barometric pressure (before storms) often triggers feeding. Stable high pressure can slow fishing. Cloudy days are often better than bluebird skies.

You don't need to memorize charts. The simple version: fish early, fish structure, fish when it's warm but not too hot.

The Gear You Actually Need

Bass fishing has a gear problem—there's too much of it, and marketing makes everything seem essential. Here's what actually matters for a first trip.

The Rod and Reel

For beginners, a medium-power spinning combo is the most versatile choice:

  • 6'6" to 7' rod, medium power, fast action
  • 2500-3000 size spinning reel
  • Spooled with 10-12 lb monofilament or 10-15 lb braided line

This setup handles most bass fishing techniques. Later, you might add a baitcasting rod for heavier lures and flipping—but spinning gear is easier to learn and plenty effective.

Budget reality: $80-150 gets a quality starter combo. The $40 big-box special will work, but the reel will fail sooner and cast worse. The $300 setup is nice but not necessary.

Terminal Tackle

The small stuff that connects your lure to your line:

  • Hooks (1/0 to 3/0 offset worm hooks for soft plastics)
  • Bullet weights (1/8 to 1/2 oz for Texas rigs)
  • Swivels and snaps
  • Extra line

The Lures

Here's where beginners go wrong: they buy twenty different lures in random colors and don't know when to use any of them.

Start with five fundamentals:

  1. Soft plastic worm (6-7", green pumpkin or watermelon) — The most versatile bass lure ever made. Texas-rig it and drag it along the bottom. Works everywhere, year-round.

  2. Spinnerbait (3/8 oz, white/chartreuse) — Easy to use. Cast and retrieve. The blade creates vibration that bass can't resist. Great for covering water.

  3. Square-bill crankbait (2-3", shad or crawfish color) — Bounces off cover and triggers reaction strikes. Cast near structure and crank it back.

  4. Senko-style stick bait (5", green pumpkin) — The "just throw it and wait" lure. Weightless, incredibly effective. Cast it to structure and let it fall. Twitch occasionally.

  5. Jig (3/8 oz, black/blue with trailer) — The "big fish" lure. Drag it along the bottom near structure. More technique-dependent but worth learning.

That's it. Five lure types, maybe $50 total. Master these before buying more.

What Else

  • Needle-nose pliers (for removing hooks)
  • Line cutters
  • Tackle box or bag
  • Polarized sunglasses (you need these—they let you see structure and fish)
  • Sunscreen and hat
  • Water and snacks

The 7 Mistakes That Ruin First Bass Trips

1. Fishing Open Water

Beginners often cast to the middle of the lake. That's where bass aren't.

The fix: Fish the edges. Cast to visible structure—docks, laydowns, weed edges, rocks. If you can see it, cast to it. Bass live in cover, not in featureless open water.

2. Moving Too Fast

Excitement makes beginners cover water quickly. Cast, reel, cast, reel—moving down the bank at high speed.

The fix: Slow down. Work each piece of structure thoroughly. Multiple angles, multiple retrieves. The first cast isn't always the one that catches fish.

3. Not Letting Lures Sink

Bass often sit near the bottom. If you're reeling as soon as your lure hits water, you're fishing above the fish.

The fix: Count down. Let your lure sink before retrieving. "5 count" and "10 count" are fishing shorthand for letting your lure reach depth. Deeper structure means longer counts.

4. Setting the Hook Too Fast

You feel a tap—you jerk the rod. The lure comes flying back without a fish.

The fix: With soft plastics, wait. Feel the weight of the fish, then set. Bass often hit a lure and swim off with it before you feel "the bite." Give them a moment to commit.

With treble-hook lures (crankbaits, topwater), it's different—set immediately when you feel the strike.

5. Using the Same Lure All Day

What worked at 7 AM might not work at 10 AM. Conditions change, bass behavior changes.

The fix: If something isn't working after 15-20 minutes, change. Different lure, different color, different retrieval speed. Let the fish tell you what they want.

6. Ignoring the Conditions

Throwing a topwater frog when bass are 20 feet deep doesn't work, no matter how much YouTube said frogs catch fish.

The fix: Match your approach to conditions:

  • Sunny + warm = fish deep or in shade, use slower presentations
  • Cloudy + warm = fish shallower, use moving baits
  • Cold water = slow everything down, use smaller lures
  • Pre-storm = fish can be aggressive, cover water quickly

7. Not Paying Attention to Your Buddy

Your experienced friend is there for a reason. What are they throwing? Where are they casting? What's their retrieve speed?

The fix: Watch and learn. Ask questions. There's no shame in copying what's working.

Basic Techniques to Know

You don't need to master everything before your first trip. But understanding these fundamentals helps.

Texas Rig

The most important bass technique. A soft plastic (worm, creature bait, crawfish) rigged weedless with a bullet weight.

How: Thread bullet weight onto line. Tie hook. Insert hook point into nose of plastic, bring it out 1/4" down. Push plastic up hook shank. Turn hook and bury point barely into plastic body.

Why it works: The rig is weedless—it slides through cover without snagging. Drag it along the bottom, hop it over structure. When you feel a bite, reel down, feel the weight, and set hard.

Cast and Retrieve

The simplest technique. Cast lure, reel it back. Crankbaits, spinnerbaits, and swimbaits all work this way.

The key: Vary your retrieval speed. Sometimes bass want fast. Sometimes slow. Start medium, adjust based on results.

Topwater

Cast floating lures (poppers, walk-the-dog baits, frogs) and work them on the surface. The visual strike is explosive and addictive.

When to use: Low light (dawn and dusk), warm water, calm conditions. When bass are actively feeding shallow.

The key: Don't set the hook when you see the strike—wait until you feel the weight. "Wait 'til you feel it" is the topwater mantra.

Jigging

Dragging a jig along the bottom, hopping it over structure. More finesse-oriented than other techniques.

When to use: Year-round, especially around hard cover (rocks, wood, docks). Jigs catch big fish.

The key: Feel the bottom. Hop the jig. Let it sit. Repeat. Set on any "mushy" feeling—that's a fish.

What to Expect: A Day on the Water

Early Morning

The best fishing is often in the first two hours after sunrise. Bass feed aggressively in low light, and smart anglers are on the water before dawn.

What happens: You'll launch (if boating) or arrive at your spot. First casts go toward obvious structure. Early morning is prime topwater time—if you have surface lures, now's the time.

Mid-Morning

As the sun rises, bass move. Shallow fish head deeper or under cover. The bite often slows.

What happens: Adjust tactics. Move to shaded areas, deeper structure. Switch from topwater to subsurface lures. Work slower.

Midday

The toughest fishing of the day for most conditions. Sun is high, bass are deep or locked to heavy cover.

What happens: Target shade—docks, overhanging trees, bridge shadows. Fish deeper with slower presentations. Take a break if nothing's happening.

Late Afternoon

As light softens, bass activity picks up again. Evening can be as good as morning.

What happens: Move shallow again. Faster presentations work. Cover more water. The last hour before sunset is often productive.

The Honest Reality

Some days, you'll catch fish after fish. Some days, you'll go home skunked despite doing everything right. That's bass fishing. The fish don't read the rulebook.

A good first trip isn't about how many fish you catch—it's about learning. Pay attention to what works, what doesn't, and where fish are holding. Each trip makes the next one better.

Boat vs. Shore

From a Boat

Most serious bass fishing happens from boats. Bass boats, aluminum jon boats, kayaks—anything that floats.

Advantages:

  • Access to structure bank anglers can't reach
  • Cover more water
  • Better positioning for presentations
  • Fish deeper water

If you're the guest: Help where you can—handling the net, managing equipment, staying out of the angler's casting lane. The boat owner usually fishes from the back (controlling the trolling motor), while guests fish from the front.

From Shore

Bank fishing absolutely works. Lots of bass are caught by anglers without boats.

Keys to success:

  • Find public access points (parks, bridges, dam tailraces)
  • Cover as much water as possible by walking
  • Focus on visible structure you can reach
  • Early and late hours, when bass are shallow

Limitations: You can only fish what you can reach. Some great structure is simply inaccessible from shore.

Kayak Fishing

The middle ground. Access water at low cost, reach structure bank anglers can't, enjoy the experience of being on the water.

Consider: Fishing kayaks run $400-1,500. No trailer, no fuel, no maintenance. Good exercise. Can access water without boat ramps.

The Group Trip Dynamic

If you're going with a group—multiple boats, a weekend at a lake house—expenses start adding up.

Common shared costs:

  • Cabin or house rental
  • Gas for boats and vehicles
  • Bait and tackle runs
  • Food and drinks
  • Tournament entry fees (if you're that serious)

The guy who owns the boat is probably paying more than anyone realizes—maintenance, insurance, the truck to tow it. Offering to cover gas or bait is the right move.

For longer trips with multiple people, track expenses as they happen. Who filled up the boat? Who bought breakfast? Who grabbed the bait?

This is what Field & Tally handles. Everyone logs purchases, automatic splitting, settle up before you head home. No "I think I paid for that" conversations three weeks later.

Building From Here

One trip doesn't make you a bass angler. But it starts the process.

What to Learn Next

  • Seasonal patterns: Where bass live changes throughout the year. Pre-spawn, spawn, post-spawn, summer, fall—each period requires different approaches.

  • Reading water: Structure isn't random. Points, channels, flats, drop-offs—understanding why bass relate to certain areas changes everything.

  • More techniques: Flipping and pitching, drop shot, Carolina rig, swimbait fishing—there's always more to learn.

  • Local knowledge: Your home lake has patterns. Regulars know things visitors don't. Talk to people, pay attention, keep notes.

Getting Serious

If the bug bites:

  • Join a club: Bass fishing clubs exist everywhere. Monthly tournaments, experienced anglers, shared knowledge.

  • Get a kayak: Inexpensive way to access water and build skills without needing a friend with a boat.

  • Fish tournaments: Nothing accelerates learning like competition. Even small local tournaments force you to figure things out.

  • Study: Books, YouTube, forums—endless bass fishing content exists. The more you understand, the more you catch.

Quick Checklist

Before Your First Trip

  • Borrow or buy a medium-power spinning combo
  • Get 5 fundamental lures (listed above)
  • Acquire polarized sunglasses
  • Get a fishing license for your state
  • Ask your host what to bring

Day Of

  • Arrive early (bass feed in low light)
  • Dress for weather and water spray
  • Bring water and snacks
  • Bring sunscreen
  • Bring needle-nose pliers

While Fishing

  • Fish structure, not open water
  • Let lures sink before retrieving
  • Vary your retrieval speed
  • Change lures if nothing's working
  • Watch what experienced anglers are doing

Handling Fish

  • Wet your hands before touching bass
  • Support the fish horizontally (don't lip-lock heavy fish vertically)
  • Minimize time out of water
  • Handle gently and release quickly if not keeping

Final Thoughts

Your first bass trip might be frustrating. The fish might not cooperate. Your buddy might catch everything while you watch.

That's fine. That's part of it.

What you're learning—even when you're not catching—builds toward future success. Where the fish were. What they ignored. What finally worked. Every trip teaches something.

And when it does click—when that largemouth smashes your lure and the fight begins—you'll understand why this sport has 30 million participants. Why people name their boats and obsess over tackle. Why alarm clocks get set for absurd hours on weekends.

Bass fishing is accessible enough to start immediately and complex enough to pursue for a lifetime. One trip doesn't make you an expert. But one trip tells you whether you want to become one.

Bring the right gear. Fish the structure. Pay attention to what works.

And when you boat that first one—when you feel its weight and see its colors and release it back to the water—welcome to the addiction.

For more on freshwater species, techniques, and destinations, see our Ultimate Guide to Freshwater Fishing.

Planning a fishing trip with your crew? Between boat gas, bait runs, cabin rentals, and the random expenses that pile up, tracking who owes what gets messy. Field & Tally keeps the group honest and settles up with one tap, so you can focus on the fish, not the math.

Plan the trip. Hit the water. Split the tab. Start tracking your trip

Ready to Simplify Your Next Trip?

Stop losing receipts and chasing down payments. Start your first trip in under a minute.

See How It Works